Jump to content

mitderplatte

Members
  • Posts

    259
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

Everything posted by mitderplatte

  1. As a fellow european player, logging in at 5:30 pm I must say: hooooolyyyy crap! The first competition I can take part in is held at 4:00 am. I do understand that it's hard to satisfy everybody, with players all around the world, living in different timezones. But guys, really?
  2. This. Make your stay longer than one in-game day, and you will start to make a profit. I haven't tried this out myself in NY, but fishing at night could be a clever move, like @Carpman99 said. Go to NY, forward time to the peak timezone in the night, fill your net, then forward time again. You'll have to pay one baitcoin to skip the cooldown timer, but if you then keep going from night to night, you won't have any cooldown timer. Do this for as long as you don't get bored, and you'll build up quite a bit of cash. If you can do this until you're level 16, you can then get a bigger net, upgrade your reel to the Prima 3000, and take your FeatherLight and your Narrow Spoon to Oregon for some trout, which is also quite lucrative. Tight lines!
  3. Well yeah. I don't know about you, but the last updates cost me a good million in cash. Buying all the new feeder, bottom, carp and spod rods, new tackle box, keepnets, etc. pp. was quite expensive. Buying reels just to work out the # of brake settings, buying boilies for 2000 / 10 - just to catch some not-really-lucrative carp, paying 20.000 in cash each time, just to travel to the new lakes and take part in the competitions (where I, for the most part, hardly manage to catch more than a handful of fish in 45 minutes) makes you think about ways to hold your cash together. With the constant nerfing going on (Alaska comes to mind - so does the pike in Michigan), one of the only solid ways of building up cash is to restrain from tournaments and sit on beaver island for a couple of nights in a row. Which is just plain-ass boring. So yeah, I now use the mussel stuff instead of large cutbait for farming, since it's just 1/5 of the price. I use Shiners instead of large minnows where I can. And yeah, I'm curios where to get a good deal for bait and the like. I mean no offense to you personally, but don't you agree that it's gotten harder and harder to keep your cash together in this game? If you're only playing in the evenings and the weekends, still trying to figure out the new lakes, and yet enjoy playing competitions the most, you have to decide. I like a good challenge, but they took the fun out of a lot of lakes by nerfing them, while upping the costs for people that want to experience every part of the game. You can have fun at a lake fishing, but you won't be able to fill your net with those fish. You can fill your net with big carp or catfish quick, but that doesn't get you much of a profit. You can make a profit, but it's either boring or takes the whole evening. Anyways.. Maybe we can bring some life back to this topic. I was curious if there are other deals than the tackle box and the shiners when you started this topic; but it's hard to compare the prices without a sheet by your side traveling. I made one, at least for the different baits, and printed it out. So I'll try to keep an eye out for some bargains there. Might be a lot of work to do the same for equipment and lures, though.
  4. There is not really a way of determining the casting distance beforehand. You'd have to buy and equip your setup, and test it out - travelling to texas, for example. Can be quite an expensive way of optimizing, but there's only a handful of fish / spots, where you really need the casting distance. Anyways, like the guys already mentioned, there are some basics to this: The longer your rod, the further it will cast. Which is part of the reason why spinning rods will give you more casting distance than the casting rods. Casting rods usually stop at around 40 meters - partly depending on the line and bait. The BassCaster 240 in combination with the Counsellor reel(s) and braid line is the only one that will cast out up to 57 m, using the medium spoon 42 g. The thinner your line, the further it will cast. Braid line is your best bet, if you really need the distance. But like @Carpman99 already mentioned, it might be a disadvantage if you're fishing for shy fish like the trout. Braid is pretty suitable for bass and walleye, though. There are certain reels that are exceptionally good when it comes to casting distance. E.g. the Espira DoublePunch - which works pretty great on the Thora 290 or the Fenix 450 - with a brake setting of 9/12. Based on your experience with the EspiraSlim, this might be true for all the Espira reels. But I haven't testet that out, really, so don't take my word for it. Last but not least: The heavier the lure, the further it will cast. Which is true for spin fishing, as well as bobber fishing. -- When it comes to bobber fishing, the pear shaped floaters will get you the furthest. If you need a little extra distance, you can always use the X-Series pear shaped floater. But be aware that it wears down by the time, and until now there is no way of repairing or re-obtaining it when it's broken. Apart from the floater, the weight of your bait also makes a difference. Like @FishyWishy already mentioned, a shiner will cast out further than a fly. -- As for the spin fishing, apart from the weight of your lure, the shape of the lure also matters. I haven't really worked out a "ranking" for this, but what I can tell you is that the medium spoons, due to their aerodynamic shape, will cast out the furthest. If there is a lot of "clutter" around your lure, you most likely can expect a little less throwing distance. Leaving out the level restrictions, here are some far-caster setups that work pretty good for me: JigWinner 270 + HornetSwarm 6000 (max brake setting: 6/12!!) + Fluoro 0.35 mm (too heavy for the rod. don't use if you're in danger of getting spooled!) This is my go-to-setup for trout fishing. When it comes to casting distance, the JigWinner behaves like a whip. I sometimes still can't believe how far this thing casts out your lure. The HornetSwarm is pretty great for trout fishing, due to it's recovery of 90 cm. Try this out if you're struggling with losing line tension fishing for trout. Can be substituted with the Espira MLR 3500 and some thinner fluoro line, if you don't want to risk breaking your shit. But you'll get less recovery. Nice setup fishing for the pike with topwater in Louisiana, too. Works great for the "Dancing with Pike" competition. BassCaster 240 + Counsellor 3500 S + Braid Line 0.23 mm Like I mentioned above, this is probably the best casting setup you can get, when it comes to casting distance. The medium spoon 42 g casts around 57 m, and even with the lighter lures, you can get 45 - 50 m easy. Pretty awesome for bass fishing in Florida or hunting walleye / pike in Michigan (but be aware of Muskies! The bigger ones might spool you with this setup!) Thora 290 + Espira DoublePunch 5500 (max brake setting: 9/12!!) + Braid Line 0.23 mm This is probably the best far-caster setup you can get. With the 42 g medium spoon you can get > 70 m, and even with the 28 g Bass Jigs you can make around 65 m. Again, pretty great for the largemouth bass in Florida, walleye in Michigan, bass & bowfin in Quanchkin, etc. Switching to Fluoro line (and maybe the HornetSwarm), you'll lose some casting distance, but then you can also use this setup for the big trout in Michigan, or - if you want to get full XP - topwater fishing for dolly vardens etc. in Alaska. You can also switch out the Thora 290 for the Loki 270, to trade away some casting distance for some more power. Both these setups are totally worth bringing to Alaska, Alberta, Florida, California, and so on, if you wanna have some fun. I love using those for the steelheads in Cali, the salmon and trout in Alberta, the snooks in Florida, and the salmons, dolly vardens, etc. in Alaska. Won't be your best setup in competitions, as you'll want to get the fish out as fast as possible in those. But it is just so much fun fighting the bigger fish on those setups! Fenix 450 + Espira DoublePunch 6500 (max brake setting: 9/12!!) + Fluoro 0.45 mm + pear shaped bobber Great for pike in New York (reduced XP), Alberta (beware of trout!!) or Quanchkin (careful with catfish and alligator gar), freshwater drum and pike in Michigan, and trout all over the place. Easily gets you out > 50 m. Again, using the X-Series pear shaped floater, you could get some additional metres out of this setup. Depending on the fish, you can also exchange the fluoro for some braid line to get some extra distance. It's also possible to trade away some casting distance for more recovery by switching to the HornetSwarm. Probably my favourite bobber setup, since even the biggest fish don't put up much of a challenge on the Brutus 360. But with the Fenix, the uni pike and smaller Muskies in Michigan give you a great fight! Sometimes I get the impression that the Fenix is kind of indestructible. Even caught a 38+ kg uni blue catfish at the pike spot with this setup last week. Brutus 360 + Thunderspin 5000 + Fluoro 0.55 mm + pear shaped floater Heavy setup for Unique Muskies in Michigan (> 40 m) and the like. As for your FeatherLight setup, the 7" rod in combination with a prima reel and fluoro line is really the best setup you can get for that rod, hunting for trout. You get a nice recovery, and all in all a maxed out, nicely balanced setup. If you really need more throwing distance (which I think you don't, at that point in leveling), it'd be best to wait for the JigWinner 270. Sorry for not using imperial measurements, but I guess you can work it out yourself. Credit for all of the setups goes out to TpCatch, whose video(s) helped me a lot, back in the days. I left out the bottom, feeder, and carp rods, but the same basics are true for them. Longer rod, heavier lure / weight, thinner line = more casting distance. Hope this helps. Tight lines!
  5. We used to be able to hide / display the full leaderboard by opening and closing the menu - which, I guess, was an okay-ish workaround. Why was this removed? Can we please have it back?
  6. Coming from another topic, I thought I might as well share the brake settings for the new reels. While I'm at it PDF: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kbJQS5x9YYi7arvcCnr6CNuBGamxvl8C/view?usp=sharing Image: https://monosnap.com/file/0SE1wkRluHbkIlYSV4Sft7FBS1z5tJ
  7. Im Shop leider gar nicht Ich hatte hier im Forum schon mal angeregt dass sie das doch bitte einführen mögen - ist aber bis jetzt nicht passiert. Du musst die Rollen erst kaufen, ausrüsten, und an einen See reisen, um sehen zu können wie viele Bremseneinstellungen sie haben. Im Ubersheet gibt's eine Seite "Spin Reel Drag" und "Cast Reel Drag", da haben andere Spieler die Bremseneinstellungen zusammengetragen, und auch gleich die Belastung für die einzelnen Stufen ausgerechnet. Es gibt auch eine Seite "Balanced Combinations", auf der du direkt Tips bekommst, welche Rolle zu welcher Rute passt. Die neuen (Feeder, Grund, etc.) Rollen die mit den letzten zwei Updates kamen sind da (noch) nicht mit drin. Hab ich aber in meinem eingedeutschten Ubersheet mal zusammengetragen ("Spinnrollen Update").
  8. Hey guys, I just did a small updated sheet for the 30 days x-series rewards for me and my friends. Thought I might share it with the community - even though I know most of you guys probably don't need it anymore. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZDUXKnIPddLt0HCjtc21WPOb26BQQOxi/view (It's in German and metric. But I guess most of it is pretty international anyways ) Be aware that repair costs are not included in the costs! Leave your equipment in your home storage of you're just after the rewards. Let me know if you find any mistakes. I also asked support if they could give us an updated sheet with all the x-series rewards - including (new) competitions and tournaments. The last one we got from killerwhale is > 2 years old, and since some stuff was added and some changed, it might be cool to get a more recent version. Tight lines!
  9. I see the guys have already helped you out. But just for clarification: If it's a couple of images or video files, the quickest way is to just use a USB stick, stick it in your PS4, copy the files, and plug it back into your PC: If it's just a single screenshot, or a handful of images, the way I usually do it is to send myself a message through PSN and attach the screenshot. If you want it on your mobile, just use the PS Messages App (Google Play / Apple App Store) and download it from there. If you need it on your PC / Mac, just go to http://my.playstation.com with your browser, go to your messages, and download it from there. Saves you the hassle of running around your flat / house with that USB stick
  10. I don't know if this got fixed with the last update already, but yeah, California has a couple of graphics glitches going on. Happens at Beaver Island, fishing for sturgeon on the right hand side, and the Cryton Dam, fishing for Striped Bass in the right hand corner as well. https://monosnap.com/file/2pf4uLfCLa29v6ruS6LDGnyouFvlze
  11. Thanks Rota, I'll try that. @Support_Team here's the video you've been asking for: It was recorded after a fresh restart. Starting at 1:50, I can't move items from the home storage to my backpack anymore. The last user input performed was equipping the small Bass Jig from my backpack (1:43) to my rod (maybe that's what's causing the error?), and then moving the X-Series Bass Jig from my backpack to my home storage (1:49). At 1:56, I'm trying to move the 4g, #1/0 Jigs to my backpack, which is not working anymore. As you can see, moving items from backpack to home storage still works (Bass Jig 14 g, #3/0 at 2:07), but I can't transfer it back. (I know it'd be easier to follow along if you heard the clicking sound, but unfortunately in-game sound is still not present in videos, 1 1/2 years after the bug report )
  12. Same for me. When freshly starting the game, I can move objects between my backpack and inventory just fine. But after a while of fiddling around in your inventory, going back and forth between the tabs with R2/L2, one of two things happens: Either you can't move items from your backpack to your home storage, or you can't move items from your home storage to your backpack. The only way to fix this is restarting the game. After a while of inventory management, it happens again. Every time you want to prepare for a competition / different waterway, you'll have to be prepared for 3-5 restarts, to get your stuff organised. I couldn't really work out what exactly causes it yet, but it happens a lot. My friends are also having the issue.
  13. the dragonfly even follows him as he walks away.. "Good luck with your 'kayak' there, mate. I'm catching those suckers by hand."
  14. I don't want to make this all about Krellic and him getting disqualified. But if he created an alt account to play competitions (even if it's "only" the amateur ones), I do agree that this is against the rules. It surely doesn't really have an impact on your scores in a big tournament, but it's still against the rules. Is this enough to disqualify somebody from a tournament he spent hours /days / weeks practicing for? I don't know. But it is a way of "reminding" people that breaking the rules has consequences. Like it or not. What's the point in running amateur competitions with a max level rating? They're there so that new players can get a whiff of the competitions while they're still learning the game. And compete with other low-level players. Pro players creating alts to compete in these amateur competitions leads the whole thing ad absurdum, and this is why it's against the rules. The fact that he's sharing a computer with his lady might also be a reason for disqualifying / (temporarily) banning him from the game. I do agree that that's not right. You don't gain any benefit if you share your PC / PS4 with a friend / wife / roommate who is also playing the game (esp. competitions / tournaments) with his / her own account. But how do you technically evaluate if it's just two people sharing the same device, or one person playing competitions / tournaments with two accounts? Where the latter can clearly be considered cheating (I think that's the one point we all agree on). From what I understand, the only thing you can technically verify is a) if it's the same IP-address and b) if it's the same device When setting up rules (and ways of ensuring people don't abuse them), you have to stick to what's technically possible. Unfortunately, as of now, this means that sharing the same device with one or more people (to play competitions / tournaments) is forbidden. At the same time, using two or more devices to play competitions / tournaments with your alt account(s) is, well, not allowed, but not punishable - as you can't really evaluate it (without using some creepy stuff like face recognition / finger prints, etc.). Which brings me to your point no. 4 - one that I totally agree on: Yes, the rules (esp. for comps / tourneys) need to be revised. They should make clear that creating an alt account is not forbidden, but playing comps / tourneys with more than one account / device is. But, as I said before, it's hard to ensure some of these rules. That's why the a change won't come with new rules. Instead, I think the amateur competitions and some of the achievements need to be revised. To me, there's several options you could take, in order to discourage people from creating alts to compete in amateur comps: 1. Remove the amateur competitions completely It's been mentioned on the forums several times, and it's maybe the "easiest" option one could take. Most of the amateur competitions don't even run, because there's not enough people signing up for them. This might change every once in a while, with a big update coming out, or releases on different platforms. I guess the PS4 release brought a lot of new players (myself included) to the game, and the eventual XBOX release will as well. But, to be honest: most people won't even bother with the competitions until they've reached at least level 40. I didn't, and I think most of you guys didn't (see #2c). So there's really no point in blocking timeframes in the daily schedule for amateur comps. 2a. Remove the rewards from amateur competitions The whole point in pro players creating alts and playing amateur competitions is the stats, the (X-Series) rewards, and maybe practicing competitions. I don't really remember if there is a fee to amateur comps, but if there is, make them free, and remove all the rewards. No X-Series reward, no baitcoins, no trophy for your profile. Maybe a cash price for the top 10 players. That's it. If low-level players would like to get a whiff of comps, let them do so. Freely. If you're grinding for XP / Cash and are at the lake while a competition is running, let them compete. If pro players want to create an alt account to "practice", let them do so. But don't reward them for it. No need to cancel the competition when there's only 10 people playing it. If the servers can handle it, let the amateur competitions run beside the regular ones, so they don't block timeframes for the "real" ones. 2b. Remove the level cap / restrictions from amateur competitions If the rewards are being removed, you can even remove the level cap, and call the amateur competitions "competition practice" or something. Saves higher level players the trouble of forwarding time 21 times to get the right conditions to practice for a comp. They don't even have to create several accounts and remember all the passwords Low-level players can still make their first experiences in competitions. Maybe even win a few (if Rota, AKA, HappyAssasin, and the other guys are asleep ) - or at least get an idea of what score they need to achieve in order to compete. 2c. Remove the level restrictions from ALL competitions to fix the achievements Some of the achievements are not obtainable once you're level 40 / 50, as you can't compete in some of the low-level competitions anymore. "School Bass" springs to mind, and I think with the euro update there are several new competitions with a level cap, that high-level players can't play, if they don't create an alt account. Remove the level cap from these competitions, and let everybody play it - and get the achievement(s). If you combine this with #2a and #2b, the low-level players can still "practice", and the high-level players aren't left out. I quite enjoy getting my FeatherLight and the small feeder rods out, and fish for small fish. Let long-time players experience the whole game. ---- All of this still doesn't fix the problem of people using alts on different devices to play a comp / tourney twice and double their chances. Neither does it solve the problem of people (legitimately) sharing their device. But it might fix the amateur competitions, the achievements, and discourage (at least some) people to create alts. If someone is crazy enough to buy two PS4s, create two accounts, grind two accounts to level 50, and play the same competition twice in a 2 hour timeframe - let em have it. I think (technically) the devs can't do anything against that. One last word to @TTV_KrellicOG: I really like your stuff, as it's given me some new input on competitions. And I really dig your editing style. I've told you my opinion on the Kp-stuff, and I think we're cool on that Keep doing what you're doing, and don't let anyone discourage you. Glad to see you active on the forums.
  15. Hey guys, ever since I started playing the game, I was always thinking that there should be an easier way of changing your lures and hooks while at the lake. As of now, you can of course use the L1 and R1 buttons to switch between your rods and lures / bait. But it's somehow limiting. Because when you use a spinning rod, and have e.g. a crankbait equipped, you can only switch your cranks / spinners / etc. If you'd want to equip a jighead + worm, you'd have to go back to the menu, select your rod, go down to jigheads, select your jig, and then select your worm. That's maybe a dozen buttons you have to press. (Assuming you're playing with a controller, and not mouse + keyboard) If you go back into the game, you can then change from a worm to a nymph easiliy. But you can't change the hook size of the jighead. Or quickly switch back to a spinner. Furthermore, once you reach level 40, you're mostly carrying somewhere around 40-100 different lures. It's quite time-consuming to scroll through all the lures - especially in competitions / tournaments. Same goes for the hook sizes if you're bobber fishing, as well as the feeders, weights, and chums. Of course you can always go back into the menu, but I think it'd be awesome if we could get an efficient and intuitive way of doing that in the in-game-screen. Especially when using a controller. Coming from games like Red Dead Redemption, Rust, etc., I always liked the radial menus as a concept - especially for consoles. I think this would work great for fishing planet. Especially with the rod-pods as a new feature - and the problems with double-button configurations. As a first idea, holding L1 could bring up your rod pod slots, and make it easy to put down, pick up, or switch rods on your rod pod, using the left or right stick. One could even incorporate some kind of indicator for when there's action on that rod (like a blinking light). Makes it easier to figure out which one you want to pick up. Or an indicator if your bait was eaten / lost on that rod. As of now, it only shows "(2) bait eaten / lost" in the top of the screen. But as we're not using a keyboard with shortcuts 1-7 for our rods, you don't necessarily know which one is number 2. Holding R1 could bring up the menu for the rod you're holding, and group your available baits into "Bass Jigs / Spinners, Jigheads, etc.". Once you select a category, you jump into the next level, and get a list of all available baits in that category. If done right, this would greatly improve the handling and UX. Making use of the analog sticks to navigate through the radial menu also solves the problem of the d-pad buttons having a double-configuration with rod pod slots and brake / reel speed settings. One would have to figure out how exactly to group everything, and what buttons to use. But I wanted to share the idea as an inspiration. I have included some screenshots and a video from other games / radial menu concepts, and threw together a small demonstration. But I think you get the idea Let me know what you think, or if this has maybe already crossed your mind.
  16. I guess it's a constant fiddle for them to assign every action in the game to the (limited) buttons on a controller. The game has obviously been designed for PC and mouse-control. Re-designing that for PS4 and controller usage is a whole different story.. On a PC, you can easily fit every possible control in one screen, as they're easily accessible with the mouse. On a console, due to the limited buttons, you'd have to split stuff up into sub-menus with several levels. You see the devs constantly encountering problems with that. Be it the navigation in your menu screen, the scrolling for lures, the selection of a chatroom, putting down your rods in the rod stand.. every control is either confusing or causes problems due to double-assignments for some buttons. Personally, I like the new control scheme in the menus. L1 and R1 for top-level, L2 and R2 for lower-level, and then come the sticks. And I like that the d-pad is now used for the left-hand menu: spot, fish-species, etc. Works pretty good for the fish species and weather. But for the chatrooms, you still have to use the right stick if you want to scroll down. The D-pad down is still used for the level above. Maybe they forgot to change that button configuration. Just make the chatrooms work like the weather menu, and we're fine. As for the shop, I agree that it's confusing, and takes too much practice. Generally speaking, I think they really need a complete overhaul of the menus (esp. for the shop), if they really want to improve the UX on a console. First step could be to get rid of the filters on the left hand side and the search field. I don't know about you guys, but I have never used those options, and probably never will. Frees up some space for more intuitive menu design (like sub-levels on the left-hand side) and frees up the up / down buttons on the d-pad for other use. But that takes a lot of work. I just hope that they're aware of it, and maybe got this on their to-do list. Since we're talking UI here: personally, I'd love to see a radial menu for the in-game selection of your rods and lures. Like the ones you see in RDR2, Rust, and other games. But that's a whole new topic, and even more work
  17. Hmm, in that case, I dunno. Sorry buddy. Have you tried searching for your PSN ID in the search field? In case you have the mobile app, you could also try sending yourself a message there. Once you did that, you'll find it in your message history. It'll be easier from then on Otherwise, you can of course also go with the USB stick. Tight lines!
  18. I haven't seen the whole video, but this seems like a good place to start:
  19. Just go to your main PlayStation menu, go up to "Messages", "create new message", and select yourself. Should work.
  20. It does not give you an option to do what?
  21. If you're on PS4, easiest way is to send yourself a message on PSN with the screenshot(s), and download it to your PC by logging in to http://my.playstation.com and checking your messages.
  22. Picking up a rod is not a problem, only putting one down. But yeah, you're right, that's a pretty good alternative. Thanks!
  23. Happy to hear that! Is the "invisible rod" is also related to connectivity issues? Sometimes it just lags for a couple of seconds before it loads; sometimes it doesn't load at all..
  24. Glad to see that most of the issues in the new update have already been reported. Took me and my friends a while to figure out why we would constantly get our lines snapped on rod slot #2. Now we know that it's a double-configuration of the D-Pad buttons. Thank you for reporting this. Hope it get's fixed soon!
  25. Sounds like another "double-button-configuration" issue (just like with the brake setting being adjusted when you put a rod in your rod holder slot #2 or #4). Is it possible that you're on the "mix recipe screen" of your inventory? There, the square button is also used to buy additional slots. Try selecting another inventory screen (like one of the rods in your bag). The square button is not used for anything else in this screen, so you should be able to put stuff from your home inventory to your bag, vice versa.
×
×
  • Create New...